Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) in Skincare: Benefits and How It Works
Overview of Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care, exploring its benefits, mechanisms, and applications in skincare products.
SPF 50 vs 30? PA++++ vs broad spectrum? Learn what sunscreen labels actually mean. Here’s how to read and use them.
Every sunscreen label includes a mix of numbers, symbols, and claims. The meanings behind SPF, PA, and broad-spectrum ratings are specific and rooted in scientific testing. Learning how to read these can help you select sun protection that’s right for your needs and your skin.
Here’s a clear explanation of what sunscreen labels actually mean, without any marketing fluff.
Before we decode those labels, you need to understand what sunscreen is protecting you from.
The sun emits different types of ultraviolet radiation, but two types reach your skin: UVB and UVA rays.
UVB rays (290-320 nm) are often called the ‘burning’ rays. They are shorter wavelengths that primarily affect the skin’s outer layer, the epidermis. These rays are most intense between 10 am and 2 pm during the summer and do not pass through glass. UVB accounts for only about 5-6% of all UV radiation reaching Earth’s surface, but it is powerful. UVB rays cause direct DNA damage, which can lead to mutations and skin cancer, especially squamous cell carcinoma, a type of skin cancer.
UVA rays (320-400 nm) are often called the ‘ageing’ rays. These longer wavelengths penetrate much deeper into your skin, reaching the dermis – a layer beneath the epidermis where your collagen and elastin are found. UVA makes up about 95% of the UV radiation that reaches Earth and can pass through glass windows. Whilst UVA is less energetic than UVB, it’s present in much higher quantities and penetrates deeper. Research shows that UVA rays, particularly at longer wavelengths around 365 nm, can penetrate deep into the dermis.
UVB rays can trigger enzymes that break down collagen, accelerating skin ageing. UVA rays can damage DNA through reactive oxygen species (ROS). Both types of UV rays raise the risk of skin cancer. UVB is more likely to cause cancer, but UVA should also be considered.
SPF means Sun Protection Factor. It is a regulated way to show how well a sunscreen protects your skin from UVB rays, which mainly cause sunburn and are linked to most skin cancers.
SPF is calculated using the Minimal Erythema Dose (MED), which is simply the amount of sun needed to cause redness on your skin 24 hours after exposure.
During testing, volunteers have sunscreen applied to small areas of their lower back at exactly 2 mg per square centimetre, then exposed to controlled UV light. The SPF value is the ratio of the MED on protected skin to the MED on unprotected skin.
The formula is straightforward:
SPF = MED of protected skin / MED of unprotected skin
If your bare skin would burn after 10 minutes in the sun, SPF 30 could, in theory, let you stay out for 300 minutes (10 minutes × 30 = 300 minutes). But this only happens in perfect lab conditions, with the right amount of sunscreen, careful application, and no swimming, sweating, or wiping off.
The key thing to remember is that SPF does not increase protection in a straight line. The difference in protection between higher SPFs is smaller than you might think.
Increasing SPF from 30 to 50 increases protection by only about 2%. The jump from SPF 15 to 30 gives just a 3% increase. That might seem small, but dermatologists usually recommend SPF 30 or higher. Most people don’t use enough sunscreen to reach the listed SPF.
People usually apply less than half of the 2 mg/cm² used in SPF testing. When applied too thinly, SPF protection is much lower than the labelled value, so higher SPF products are safer in real life. For practical application, aim to use a quarter teaspoon of sunscreen for your face and a full shot glass for your entire body. This measurement ensures you’re using enough product to match the SPF values indicated on the label.
Whilst SPF measures how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays, the PA rating system shows how well it protects against UVA rays. PA stands for ‘Protection Grade of UVA’ and was developed in Japan, and is commonly used in Asia.
The PA system uses the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) method to measure UVA protection by looking at how much the skin tans. The PPD method checks how much the skin darkens 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure, much like SPF measures redness after UVB exposure.
The UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF) is calculated as:
UVA-PF = Minimal Pigmentation Dose of protected skin / Minimal Pigmentation Dose of unprotected skin
The PA rating translates these UVA-PF numbers into an easy-to-understand system:
More plus signs mean better UVA protection. A sunscreen with PA++++ gives at least 16 times more protection against UVA-related skin darkening than bare skin. Still, even the highest PA rating does not block all UVA rays. It sets a minimum level, and comparing products can be tricky because each symbol covers a wide range.
In the United States, PA ratings are not common. The FDA uses ‘broad spectrum’ to show UVA protection instead. Other regions have different standards. Knowing this can help you make better choices.
The FDA gives a sunscreen ‘broad spectrum’ status if 90% of its UV absorption happens at 370 nm or higher. This sounds good, but there is a catch. UVA rays range from 320 to 400 nm, and 370 nm is only in the middle of that range.
Europe has a stricter rule: the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) requires that the UVA Protection Factor be at least one-third of the SPF. In a study of 20 sunscreens, 19 met the FDA’s standard, but only 11 met the European ISO rule. So, some US products labelled ‘broad spectrum’ may not give enough UVA protection by international standards.
Even if you pick a sunscreen with the right SPF and broad-spectrum protection, most people still do not get enough coverage.
Studies show there are some common problems with how sunscreen is used in real life:
SPF shows how well a sunscreen protects against UVB, but people often overestimate its effect because of how they use it. PA (or ‘broad-spectrum’) shows UVA protection, but this can change depending on where you live and the label.
For the best results, pick a broad-spectrum sunscreen, use plenty, and reapply often. Look for SPF 30 or higher, broad-spectrum, and PA+++ or PA++++ if you can. This makes choosing easier.