Salicylic Acid: What It Is, How It Works & Skin Benefits
What Salicylic Acid is, how it works on skin, its benefits for acne and oily skin, types of products, potential side effects, and how to use it safely.
What Salicylic Acid is, how it works on skin, its benefits for acne and oily skin, types of products, potential side effects, and how to use it safely.
Salicylic Acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) family of chemical exfoliants and has the chemical formula C7H6O3.
Salicylic Acid stands out from other exfoliating acids because it is oil-soluble. The main difference between BHAs and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid is that AHAs dissolve in water, while BHAs dissolve in oil.
Salicylic Acid is found naturally in plants like willow tree bark, wintergreen leaves, fruits, vegetables, and spices. In the wild, it helps protect plants from diseases.
Pure Salicylic Acid is a white, crystalline powder that dissolves only a little in water but much more in many organic solvents. It has a weak acidic pH of about 2.4. Today, most cosmetic brands use a lab-made version to ensure each batch works the same.
Salicylic Acid is chemically very similar to Aspirin (Acetylsalicylic Acid). Because of this, it has been used for centuries to reduce inflammation and soothe red, irritated skin.
In skincare, Salicylic Acid works by breaking down the mix of dead skin cells, oil, and debris that can clog pores.
People have used plants containing salicylates for thousands of years. Ancient Egyptian texts mention using willow for inflamed wounds, and around 400 BCE, Hippocrates recommended willow bark tea for inflammation. Scientific study began in 1763, when Edward Stone, an English cleric, carefully tested willow bark powder on patients and recorded the results.
In 1828, researchers isolated salicin, the main active compound in willow bark, and later converted it to Salicylic Acid in the lab. Salicylic Acid was widely used in the 19th century, but it needed large doses and often caused stomach irritation. This led to the creation of Acetylsalicylic Acid (Aspirin) in 1897, which kept similar benefits but offered improved characteristics.