Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) in Skincare: Benefits and How It Works

Niacinamide is everywhere. Seriously, it can be found in serums, moisturisers, sheet masks, toners, and even your shampoo if the brand’s marketing team got creative. It’s the ingredient beauty companies are incorporating into almost everything, claiming it will shrink pores, fade dark spots, erase ten years off your face, and somehow reverse the damage from that one time you fell asleep in your makeup after three cocktails.

And here is the kicker: some of this is actually true. Not all of it – let’s not get carried away – but enough to make it worth your time.

So what is Niacinamide, really, and does it live up to all these promises?

This article breaks down what Niacinamide actually is, what it genuinely does to your skin (according to research, not TikTok), and whether you actually need it or if it’s just another expensive way to feel like you’re doing something.

SO, WHAT NIACINAMIDE ACTUALLY IS?

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide or 3-pyridinecarboxamide, is basically just a scientific name for one type of vitamin B3.

Here is the science bit: it is water-soluble. This means it dissolves easily in water, which matters because your body doesn’t store water-soluble vitamins for very long. You need to top them up regularly through food or skincare.

Vitamin B3 actually comes in two primary forms: Niacinamide (what we’re talking about) and Nicotinic Acid (also called Niacin). Both forms can do the same job as a vitamin in your body because your body can convert one into the other. However, Niacinamide is much gentler on your skin than Nicotinic Acid, meaning it won’t cause the redness, irritation, or flushing that Nicotinic Acid (Niacin) sometimes triggers.

WHERE YOU CAN FIND IT NATURALLY

Niacinamide is naturally found in both plant- and animal-derived foods.

Plant-based sources:

Green leafy vegetables, potatoes, and beans
Fortified bread, cereals, wheat, and oats
Nuts, seeds, legumes, yeast, and mushrooms
Bananas, coffee and tea

Animal-based sources:

Meat and poultry (turkey, chicken, beef, and pork)
Fish and seafood (tuna, salmon, and other fish)
Dairy products (milk, cheese, and yoghurt)
Eggs

Your body can produce some Niacinamide from an amino acid called tryptophan in your liver.

However, the amount made is usually not enough for everyone’s needs. Most people get enough of this vitamin through a balanced diet that includes foods high in Niacinamide.

But some groups, like vegetarians, pregnant women, or those with dietary restrictions, may not get enough from food alone. In these cases, taking supplements or using skin care products with Niacinamide can help maintain proper levels.

HOW NIACINAMIDE ACTUALLY WORKS AT THE CELLULAR LEVEL

At the cellular level, Niacinamide is involved in producing NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADP (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate).

These NAD and NADP molecules are necessary for the activity of over 400 different enzymes. That means they help with more reactions in your body than any other vitamin.

Here’s what these molecules do:

Energy Production: NAD helps your body turn food like carbs, proteins, and fats into energy.
Cell Protection: These molecules act as antioxidants, shielding your cells from stress and damage.
Essential Body Functions: NAD and NADP help regulate gene activity, cell growth, DNA repair, and cell death, helping your body maintain and fix itself.
Brain and Nervous System Support: Niacinamide is important for maintaining a healthy brain and nervous system. When you eat foods with Niacinamide, it is quickly absorbed in your stomach and small intestine, then travels to your liver and throughout your body, where it is turned into helpful NAD and NADP molecules.

HOW DOES NIACINAMIDE HELP THE SKIN?

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is widely used in skincare for its multifunctional benefits, backed by clinical research.

Here are some of the main benefits of adding Niacinamide to your skincare routine:

Reduces Signs of Ageing

Niacinamide helps your skin produce more collagen and other structural proteins, which improves skin elasticity and reduces fine lines. It also stimulates ceramide and fatty acid production, strengthening your skin’s barrier.

This helps prevent moisture loss and keeps your skin plump and resilient. Niacinamide also acts as an antioxidant, helping protect your skin from free radical damage. Studies show that 5% niacinamide can significantly improve facial elasticity and reduce wrinkles.

Better Skin Hydration

Niacinamide helps your skin make more of the natural substances that keep it healthy and moisturised, including ceramides and fatty acids. This strengthens your skin’s protective barrier, preventing water loss and keeping your skin hydrated.

Niacinamide upregulates serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT), the rate-limiting enzyme in ceramide synthesis. This means it directly boosts your skin’s ability to produce ceramides from scratch. Research shows Niacinamide can increase ceramide production by 4-5 times and decrease water loss through the skin.

Sun Protection and Repair

Niacinamide helps protect your skin from UV damage and can even help counteract some of the harmful effects after sun exposure. It reduces UV-induced inflammation by lowering levels of inflammatory molecules (cytokines) in your skin. It also supports DNA repair mechanisms in skin cells damaged by UV radiation, though it should never replace proper SPF protection.

Lightens Dark Spots and Evens Skin Tone

One of Niacinamide’s most notable benefits is its ability to reduce dark spots and uneven skin colour. It works by blocking the transfer of melanin (the substance that gives skin its colour) between different types of skin cells.

This means less pigment builds up in your skin, helping fade dark spots and preventing new ones from forming. Clinical studies show that Niacinamide can improve skin brightness after four weeks of use.

Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Effects

Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory and oil-regulating properties, which make it helpful for people with acne-prone or sensitive skin. It soothes red, swollen acne and has gentle antibacterial effects, supporting acne treatment without the irritation that stronger ingredients can cause.

Niacinamide also reduces how much oil (called sebum) your skin makes, which helps prevent clogged pores and acne. Studies show that using 4% Niacinamide on the skin leads to significant improvements in acne.

Minimises Pore Appearance

Niacinamide doesn’t physically shrink your pores (nothing can – pore size is genetic, mainly), but it makes them look noticeably smaller. By regulating sebum production, it prevents pores from clogging and stretching.

It also improves skin elasticity, which helps tighten the skin around your pores. Studies show that Niacinamide can reduce the appearance of visible pores by 15-18% after eight weeks of regular use.

Gentle and Safe

One of the best things about Niacinamide is that most people’s skin tolerates it very well. Unlike some other forms of vitamin B3, such as Nicotinic Acid, it doesn’t cause irritation, redness, or flushing. This makes it safe for long-term use and suitable even for sensitive skin. You also don’t have to worry about a purging period when you start using it, unlike with retinoids or chemical exfoliants.

However, while rare, a few individuals may experience mild irritation. If this happens, check with a dermatologist for further advice.

Most skincare products have Niacinamide concentrations between 2% and 10%, which is both safe and effective. Because Niacinamide works in several ways, it can address many different skin concerns in a single product.

As always, do a patch test before trying a new product. Apply a small amount to your inner forearm and wait 24 hours to see if you have any reaction.

TYPES OF PRODUCTS CONTAINING NIACINAMIDE

You can find Niacinamide in:

Serums: Concentrated liquid treatments applied before moisturiser
Moisturisers and creams: Daily face creams
Cleansers: Face wash products
Eye creams: Products specifically for the delicate skin around your eyes
Sunscreens: Sun protection products
Toners and mists: Liquid products applied after cleansing
Masks: Treatment products used occasionally

HOW TO ADD NIACINAMIDE TO YOUR ROUTINE

Adding Niacinamide to your skincare routine is simple. You can find it in many products, such as serums, moisturisers, toners, and cleansers.

The Right Concentration

Serums: Niacinamide serums are very popular because they are lightweight and contain a concentrated dose of the ingredient. They are typically applied after cleansing and toning, but before moisturising. Serums allow the active ingredient to penetrate the skin effectively.
Moisturisers: Many moisturisers now include Niacinamide. This is a good choice if you want a simple routine, as it hydrates your skin and provides the benefits of the vitamin at the same time.
Toners and Cleansers: While less common, you can also find Niacinamide in these products. A toner can provide a light layer of Niacinamide after cleansing, while a cleanser offers short contact with the skin. For best results, leave-on products like serums and moisturisers are generally more effective.

WHAT CONCENTRATION SHOULD YOU LOOK FOR?

More isn’t always better. Too much can cause irritation. Studies have shown that Niacinamide is effective at concentrations as low as 2%. Most products on the market sit somewhere between 2% and 10%.

When selecting a product, carefully review the ingredient list. Niacinamide might be listed as Niacinamide, Nicotinamide, or vitamin B3.

2% to 5%: This range is effective for most skin concerns, including improving barrier function, reducing redness, and managing oil production. Most clinical studies demonstrating Niacinamide’s benefits have employed concentrations within this range. This is the sweet spot for sensitive skin.
10%: This is the most common concentration you’ll find in dedicated serums. It’s suitable for targeting more stubborn issues, such as enlarged pores, uneven texture, and pigmentation.
Above 10%: Proceed with extreme caution. Some brands offer concentrations up to 20%. While this can be effective for very oily skin or severe texture issues, it also comes with a higher risk of irritation and can sometimes cause redness or mild stinging. For most people, there’s no need to go this high. If you do, introduce it slowly and monitor your skin’s response.

WHEN TO APPLY NIACINAMIDE

You can use Niacinamide in both your morning and evening skincare routines. It is stable and works well with other ingredients, including retinol, AHAs, and BHAs.

A simple routine could look like this:

Morning: Cleanser → Toner (optional) → Niacinamide serum → Moisturiser → Sunscreen
Evening: Cleanser → Toner (optional) → Niacinamide serum → Moisturiser (or other treatments like retinol)

Who benefits most:

Oily skin: Controls sebum and reduces shine
Dry skin: Strengthens barrier and improves moisture retention
Combination skin: Balances different zones without over-drying or over-moisturising
Sensitive skin: Calms inflammation without irritation
Acne-prone skin: Reduces breakouts and post-inflammatory marks
Ageing skin: Improves elasticity and reduces fine lines

WORKS WELL WITH OTHER INGREDIENTS

Niacinamide is compatible with most other skincare ingredients, including:

Hyaluronic acid (a hydrating ingredient)
Peptides (ingredients that support skin structure)
Retinol (an anti-ageing ingredient)

THE FINAL VERDICT

So, is Niacinamide worth the hype? In a word: Yes.

It’s a reliable, versatile, and scientifically-backed ingredient that can benefit almost every skin type and concern. It’s not a magic wand that will fix all your problems overnight.

Visible improvements usually happen within 4 to 12 weeks, depending on your skin issue. This timeline helps you stay patient and realistic. With regular use, Niacinamide can significantly improve your skin’s health and look.

The evidence base is solid, the side effect profile is minimal, and it works well with nearly everything else in your routine, which is more than can be said for most trendy skincare ingredients.

Ready to get your glow on?

Check your current products – you might already be using it without knowing.